Monday, January 16, 2006

CASTLE RISING




















We took advantage of our recently joined membership of British Heritage to visit Castle Rising and later that day Castle Acrea. We were lucky in that when we went into the reception to get our tickets, the custodian became very intertested in the fact that we were from Ramsey. Turns out he is an Archaeologist and has an intense interest in St Felix who was an original Monk associated with Castle Rising back in the 7th Century - before the current stucture was built.
He regaled us for about an hour on the history of the area, and his work in tracing the activities of St Felix. In the nearby church is the original font that graced the original church on this site, and carvings on the front of the font illustrate three faces - each with cats ears! It was a joke by Felix the cat.He told us that Felix's bones were originally buried in Ramsay but later removed, and as we had never heard of St Felix in Ramsey he was intrigued and asked if we could make some enquiries for him.
The Castle was built around 1140 and although the roof has fallen in there are still some rooms in perfect condition.This together with the massive earthworks which are some 12o feet high in places makes the site of great national interest.The castle passed to the Howard family in 1544 and remains in their hands today, the current owner being a descendant of William D'Albini 11 who pioneered the building!! No relation of Johnnie I suspect!
We then drove some 20 miles to Castle Acres a magnificent village near a 13th century Abbey.The abbey is in ruins but incredibly major parts remain intact and there are still some rooms which are habitable.
The top picture left is the ramains of the original front of the abbey. The other three being Castle Rising.
Had a lovely lunch in a pub there (lambs fry and mash(!) a pint and a glass of excellent red and then home to Ramsey.
Spent Sunday on the web researching Cornish Cottages and have booked a five night stay in The Cobblers Cottage at Charlestown and 18th century fishiing harbour.
Two (!) photos of the cottage abov e!

Sunday, January 08, 2006

KIRBY HOUSE




Yesterday was a pretty quiet day - it actually started to snow in the morning so we had a day at home.Did some washing and took it to the laundromat in St Ives for drying and then came home for a crib tournament. So this morning we decided we had better get out and find an English Heritage property to visit and settled on Kirby which is about 38 miles away.
This old Mnsion dates back to 1570 in the reign of Elizabeth the 1st.It is a truly magnificent structure and although technically "a ruin" is still a substantial building and able to be walked through.The gardens are remarkable and a tribute to English Heritage who maintain them.
This is an unusual history because "The beauty of Kirby's decline is that it was private and without violence.The house was never burnt, ravaged, used as a quarry or assaulted by mobs.It simply lapsed". A fitting tribute paid by a 20th century architectural historian

On the way home we called into Oundle a pretty market village of great antiquity. We went into a wonderful old Pub where Len had a pint and Carol regretted having a glass of Merlot which, being French was bloody awful!!

Saturday, January 07, 2006

ISLE OF WIGHT

Back from Vienna courtesy of British Airways who had excelled themselves in the catering department. On the flight over to Vienna we were given "supper" which consisted of two white bread cheese and pickle sandwiches. On the flight from Vienna to Heathrow we were given afternoon tea - Yep - two white bread cheese and pickle sandwiches. Wowee.Took the ferry from Southampton to East Cowes - a trip of just under an hour and calm as a millpond. Drove down to Freshwater Bay where we found the Hotel Albion perched on the sea front and our room leading onto a walkway on the seafront - very comfortable with magnificent views. The Island is not very large of course, and we visited every area. Osborne House at Cowes was built in the 19th century by Albert the consort to Queen Victoria. He must have been a remarkable man because the substantial house had central heating and insulation incorporated in it's construction.It was used by the royal family as a Summer residence - Queen Victoria had 9 children and the place had the feel of a family home (albeit very substantial) Albert died when he was 45 and the Queen went into mourning and dressed in black from that day until her death some forty years later when she instructed that she be buried in a white funeral to appear as a bride for her re-union with Albert.We also visited Carisbrook Castle a 12th century construction high on a hill (aren't all castles?) and used originally for the defence of the island. Later it was famed for housing the imprisonment of Charles 1st who was taken from there to London to have his head chopped off.The Hotel Albion gave an impression of Faulty Towers in its layout (but much more efficient) and most of the guests were elderly and genteel! We played scrabble in the lounge while waiting fofr the dinner gong. The weather was great - although one morning was minus 4 degrees and it took some time to de-ice the car! On the morning that we were leaving, we woke to hear the waves crashing on the walkway, and heard spray splashing heavily on the windows -so we were pleased that we were going.
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Thursday, January 05, 2006

ISLE OF WIGHT PHOTOS






From the top -The Needles and a shot of the coast next to the hotel.
Len sitting on the walkway outside our bedroom. Carol at Carisbrooke Castle and an early morning sunrise.

A BIT MORE VIENNA



On Christmas Eve we went on a coach tour of the Danube Valley. Only 12 of us on board with an excellent guide who did his commentary in English,French and Spanish!

The main feature was a visit to a Benedictine Monastery set hign on a hill top overlooking the pictureque town of Melk. The monastery was enormous - with guest wing Used by royalty)treasure house, library and a most ornate Baroque chapel. There are still 12 monks living in the place which by any standards was an over the top demonstration of what religion produces. Photos above are of the facade of the monastery and the town of Melk taken from the balcony of the monastery.

After a detailed guided tour of the monastery we went on to a village on the banks of the Danube for lunch, following which we went to an ancient village Durnstein which is built into the side of a hill on top of which are the remains of a 10th century castle. Narrow streets with vintage cottages. As it was Christmas Eve everything closed down at lunchtime in Austria as the Christmas celebrations are held that evening - so no shopping (Hurray). The tour gave us a good look at the Austrian countryside and the V ienna Woods - all very beautiful.

Wednesday, January 04, 2006

VIENNA ON CHRISTMAS DAY

As we had booked seats for a Mass at the Imperial Palace Chapel ( the only time I have ever PAID to go to church) we were up early and off on the underground to the Old City and took our place with the crowd of other Mass goer. The chapel was quite beautiful, and although the Mass was in German it was easily followed. The orchestra with choir provided a Mozart Mass which was absolutely magic. At the end of the mass, the Vienna Boys choir assembled at the front of the church and sang three Christmas Carols -just beautiful - and I was not suprised when there was a prolonged applause.

Back to the hotel where we had lunch with a nice bottle of Austrian wine which induced a welcome snooze in the afternoon. In the evening we attended a Mozart and Strauss concert in the salon of the Austerlitz Palace. It was a most intimate setting with only about 250 people. The Chamber Orchestra was superb, and a baritone and a soprano sang beautifully.

VIENNA PHOTOS
















This is the Imperial Palace where the Hapsberg's live for hundreds of year. Then Carol posing with Fiacres in the background, and the one on the right is of the Empress's chambers in the palace.

The top pictures are of Len getting stuck into a much needed Gluhwein, St Stephens church and Schoonbrun Palace which was the Hapsburg summer residence about 6 miles from the Impreial Palace itself!!

VIENNA FOR CHRISTMAS

Wednesday, December 22

Arrived at 9.45 after a flight with BA, and having had our Christmas celebration with Peter and Mary. We’re staying at the Tourotel Mariahilf which is comfortable – large room and large bathroom and very good heating! It’s good that you can open the windows when it gets too hot!

Thursday, December 23

Started off the day with a buffet breakfast that set us up for lots of cold and sightseeing! We decided to walk into town to get our bearings, and on the way it started to snow! By the time we got to the Staatsoper (Opera House) I had the perfect excuse to buy an umbrella! Lots of artists (musical type) there who try to flog you tickets for evening performances – all quite legitimate and it seems to be an expected part of their craft/art. We decided to take a city tour to get ourselves oriented as the walk in hadn’t solved a lot of problems. That was great in giving the idea of the Ring Roads around the old city, and the major landmarks. After the tour it was snowing quite consistently, though it wasn’t cold enough for it to settle on the ground – anyway gave the perfect excuse to drop into the Sacher Hotel which is a major Viennese landmark and the origins of the famous Sacher Tortr. There we had a lovely lunch (though Len’s sausage/Frankfurt was a bit sparse!). Of course had to have some Sacher Torte – and it was truly delicious. Snow stopped during lunch so then we walked up through the Inner City to St Peter’s Church (a very gilded Baroque Church) and St Stephen’s, probably the best known place in Vienna. Wandering through the old streets was magic, but by 4 we needed a refreshing gluhwein and punch to warm up the inner and outer self. By the time we were set to head home, all the Christmas lights were on, making the streets a veritable wonderland, so instead of going home we went to the Christmas market in the Town Hall Square. What a great family atmosphere, and so colourful. Right next door is the Kunsthistorisches Museum, a wonderful museum of art and artistic objects that also is staging an exhibition of Goya paintings. between Goya, Titian and velasquez etc we were very cultured by the end of nearly two hours – and very warm, too. A very pleasant meal back at the hotel, with a very nice Austrian white wine was the end to a very white Christmassy day.

Friday, December 23

First thing on the agenda was to go to the Practice Session of the Lippizaner Horses at the Imperial Palace, so it was an early start and breakfast across the road at a delightful bakery that has been operating there since 1885. It’s a real Viennese place – great coffee, great bakery and the paper supplied for you to linger over – pity about the German type! After 90 minutes of the horses (and how they train and love them was easy to see) we picked up our tickets for Christmas day mass at the palace, where we’ll also hear the Vienna Boys Choir. The Imperial Palace is a huge complex with so much to see and do there. We saw the Treasury and the Imperial Apartments where they’ve made the assassinated Empress Elizabeth into something of a cult figure. The most unexpected and most moving parts of the day, though, were two impromptu choral performances, one by a tenor and one by a group of 30 or so young people, outside the Imperial Apartments. The sound was truly glorious and quite moving.

We’d anticipated getting to Schonnbrun, the Summer Palace, too, but by the time we arrived (spent too much time with the Empress) it was almost closing time for the palace. What we hadn’t known about, though, was the very upmarket Christmas Market in the Palace, and the wonderful setting of the market, the lights, and the giant Christams tree. What a fairlyland, wonderful setting, and it gave a wonderful sense of the ‘wonder’ of the Christmas pageant. having seen snow and seen the Schoonbrun with its lights and tasted the warming gluhwein again, we really feel we’ve experienced a European Christmas.

Sunday, December 11, 2005

ICKWORTH HOUSE -A TOTAL FOLLY




On the way home from Bury St Edmunds we saw a sign for a National Trust property - Ickworth House, so we decided to make a small detour to pay a visit. As with most NT properties this time of the year, only the gardens and souvenir shop are open so we were not able to tour the house itself. It is a monstrous property with an incredi ble history.In 1795 the eccentric Earl of Bristol created this equally eccentric house to display his collection of paintings by Titian/Gainsborough and Velazquez and a magnificent collection of Georgian silver. Unfortunately Napoleon nicked his collection before he could bring it over from Europe!Successive members of the family (all oddballs and philanders)gradually completed the building and had a magnificent garden conpleted by the famous 'Capability'Brown.

Shortly after the end of World War 2, the current Earl, who was a London playboy and spending the family fortune as fast as he could, joined a gang of professional jewel thieves and was subsequently caught and jailed.

Then in the 1990's the incumbent was convicted of trafficking heroin, and had in the meantime finished of the millions left in the family coffers supporting his own drug and high lifestyle. And so the National Trust became the owners. The central rotunda is ornately decorated with carvings, and the two generous curved wings joining the rotunda contained dozens of rooms. One of the wings is now used as a high class hotel.

Inside the main entrance is a placard on which is displayed a comment by Queen Vicoria " Ickworth House is the ultimate folly" V ery true my dear, very true.

BURY ST EDMUNDS





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We heard on the radio that there was to be a Christmas Market at Bury St Edmunds, and as it is only 50 miles away we took off yesterday at 8.30 and duly arrived an hour later. It was scarf/gloves and topcoat weather!

We parked on the edge of the centre of town, and walked into a market square which we discovered was the normal Saturday market. The produce stalls were exceptional - fresh raspberries at 2pound for 2 punnets was irresistable.

A short walk through beautiful old narrow lanes brought us to the site of the Christmas Market where there was entertainment laid on as well as a French market providing lots of food options. Cassoulet/croque monsieur/fish soup -all very yummy. Morris Dancers performed non stop -and a female choir sang carols and popular songs beautifully.

We tore ourselves away from all this to see the remains of the 7th Century abbey. Remains is the right word as the photos show. The top ones show a reconstruction of the original south transept of the abbey and the next one the present remains. The window at the rear is clearly identifiable.

The town's name comes from the fact that King Edmund died and was buried here in Medeival times. The town is also famous for being the centre where 25 Barons met and swore to make King John sign the famous Magna Carta the birth of democracy.

Monday, December 05, 2005

WISBECH AND SWAFFHAM







It was quite warm this morning (8 degrees) and we took off for a visit to Wisbech a lovely market town about 30 miles away.It was once only 4 miles from the sea, but land reclamation means it is now 11 miles, but the River Nene still accomodates ships up to 2000 tons. In the town, there is a row of beautiful Georgian houses on each side of the river.One of thembeing the birthplace of Octavia Hill founder of the National Trust. Wisbech has a fine museum which contains (amongst other things) the manuscript of Charles Dickens Great Expectations donated by his lifelong friend Chauncey Townsend, a resident. The market square had the usual stalls with meat/fish/vegetables and fruit plus the bric a bac stuff. Carol was in her element!

It was first mentioned in the charter of the Saxon King Wulphere in the year 664, when it was called Visebec. The first Wisbech Castle was erected by William I in 1086. King John slept there when he visited Wisbech, and who's treasure is still being searched for - lost in The Wash in 1216.

Next stop was Swaffham, another market town of much charm. As it raining we avoided the market (poor Carol) and opted for a Pub Lunch at the Norfolk Hero. We ordered Ploughmans which duly arrived with great cheese and salad. The Publican's wife chatted to us and we found out that her daughter was backpacking thru Oz and was currently in Cairns. Photo at top ( for some reason I am not able to get photos included with text!!)

Starting of homewards we came across a National Trust site Oxburgh Hall. As with most NT Places the house was not open for visitors during Dec/Jan, but the gardens were there to be seen and the NT shop which is a paradise for Christmas presents. The rain stopped and managed to get a couple of photos , one of the glorious colours of the trees which are still shedding their leaves - very late this year as it has ben so warm!

Carol has become a very competent navigator and loves using the back roads as an alternative to major ones - and so we successfully drove home with hardly a missed turn!

Thursday, November 24, 2005

BIT'S AND PIECES



There are dire warnings in the press and on the internet about a drastic change in the weather due anytime. Winds are sweeping down from the North Pole and large areas of the country are supposedly to be snow bound. It is certainly colder again and the wind is getting up so golf tomorrow is looking doubtful. Fortunately there is a fall back plan as the club has two snooker tables and my mates have suggested that this will be the alternative programme.

The night before last we had a failure of lights in the lounge,kitchen and spare room. No probs Carol, I will soon replace the fuse. Opened the meter box to be confronted by a large sign warning dire consequences for meddling with the contents - and not a fuse in sight. Got the agent's electrician in and he went to a circuit breaker box cunningly concealed behind he front door and saw that it had tripped on one circuit. The bulb in the loounge had burned out thus tripping the breaker. Pretty simple when you know how.

Also lost the bathroom light - it is a fluorescent so I said no probs Carol, I'll replace the starter. Oh no - the installation looked like nothing I had ever seen before and no obvious starters. I took a photo and went to the local "we have everything store" and they said they had never seen anything like it either! The electrician then explained it was a decorative type installation with an inbuilt starter on the tube and he would see what he could do to replace the whole thing. Cars are not the only things we are having problems with!!

Carol is not going on contract with the school - they cannot offer sufficient salary as Carol is not a "qualified teacher" and there is a maximum salary applicable . The Poms have a Qualified Teacher Certificate rating which does not take any recognition of Australian qualifications!!As this salary is considerably below the remuneration she gets from ITN (the agency supplying her services to the school) she is staying with that arrangement. It means no pay during the holidays, but under the arrangement she has, she is able to deduct all sorts of expenses (including the L360 per month rent) before tax and the net effect is very acceptable.

The school term finishes on Dec 20th and there is a two week break We drive to my brother's place after school (hopefully the roads will not be ice/snowbound), spend the night there and then go on to Heathrow to get our plane for Vienna and Christmas.

I have just read a comment in the Times about the likelihood of the weather getting nasty, and it said that we should watch what the squirrels are doing as they store a lot of acorns when there is a hard winter coming. Our little buggers have been working their bushy tails off for the past few weeks - so it don't look good!!

Monday, November 21, 2005

SUNDAY NOVEMBER 20TH




The weather seems to have settled into cold nights but clear blue sky days with the temperature ranging between zero and 8 degrees. Church Green pond has almost completely frozen over and the ducks can be seen walking on ice.

Today we consulted our National Trust b ook and found a site to visit just 30 miles away.It was Wimpole House and Model farm. We took Odette with us (she is the girl from West Australia who lives iin Flat 3) and enjoyed an interesting day. The property had been in one famillies possession for hundreds of years, but in the 19th century one member went through the money by living the life of Riley. Sadly the whole estate went into disrepair until it was bought by the daughter of Rudyard Kipling. She spent some years trying to restore the house and farm to their former glory, but finally gave up and it was all bequeathed to the National Trust.

The Model farm is fully operational and maintains a number of critically endangered breeds of horses/goats/cows and other animals. Several species were introduced by the Vikings back in the dim distant past. While we walked over to the house, we did not go in as it would have cost Odette 10 pounds although we would have been free as members. The estate is extensive with beautiful park like grounds surrounding the main house.

Drove back to Huntingdon and had coffee and sandwiches and ran into Ed, the Canadian guy from Flat 1- so gave him a lift back. His heating had closed down on Friday and he had been sleeping over at Odette's, but we managed to get up in the loft and reset the system last night. And today we have a new hot water tank thank heavens as the hall carpet was gradually becoming totally wet.

Sarah (the Kiwi girl in flat 3) left for Peru yesterday to walk the Inca trail before going home to NZ.

Sunday, November 13, 2005

Norwich and Great Yarmouth



This weekend we decided to go to Norwich which is about 70 miles east of here. ILen spent some weeks in Norwich prior to leaving for Austrlai in1952. Ostensibly the time was to be spent "learning about the "norwich Union" in Australia where he was being sent. It was quite staggering that he has no recoolecion of his time there, and had no recognition of anything in the aCity.

Our first stop was the St Peter Mancroft church which is is one of the largest Parish churches in England. It was a beautiful brightly and naturally lit church due mainly to the fact that nearly all the windows were clear rather than the usual stained glass. this was because a gunpowder factory nearby exploded many years ago and blew out all the original windows and they were never replaced! We were accosted by a dear old lady who offered to show us around. We made her day, but she was very interesting.The church was built between 1430 and 1455 and escaped the considerable bombing of WWII which Norwich suffered.

We walked through the dellightful narrow streets of the city down to the Norwich Cathedral, another magnificent building which dates back to 1066 and again we were welcomed by volunteers working to promote the cathedral. We have seen so many Cathedrals that it is getting hard to make comparisons.

Nearby is the Norwich Castle which was built by the Normans as a royal palace and, while the outside has been restored, the inside of the old building has been turned into one of the best museums we have seen. Had lunch there, beef casserole with dumplings - quite scrumptious.

Then we took off for Great Yarmouth about 20 miles away on the coast. Waste of time - a very depressing waterfront which, while there was a nice sandy beach, was backed by a delapidated pier and similarly delapidated buildings on the espalanade. Off shore there was a battery of 30 Power generating windmills - very ugly sight. Drove home with Carol navigating the back roads. Stopped at a pub for apint and then Carol drove back through the darkened lanes - did a great job to get us home!!

Monday, November 07, 2005

BUYING A USED CAR -OR FOOLS RUSH IN !!



When we first arrived here and were staying with my brother Peter, our first priority was to buy a car so that we could get around. Peter took us to his garage where he had bought his VW Golf, and we were shown a Vauxhall Vectra 2.0 litre sedan which looked good. Took it for a test drive and were impressed. So we bought it for 2100 quid and felt very happy with ourselves.

A couple of days later we drove off to visit John Shapiro about 50 miles away, and on the way back found that the clutch was slipping badly. We took it back to the garage and they agreed to put in a new clutch and lent us a car for the week that it took to be fixed, which we were pleased about.They also put in a new master cylinder at the same time.

All was well, until we developed a decided jumping feeling when starting off in first gear. Fortunately there is a Vauxhall dealer here in Ramsey and they had a look and told me that we needed two new drop links.So that was done and another 140 quid passed over. Then a few weeks later I decided to replace the front left tyre which was looking a bit weary and as the spare was very ordinary we asked that the old front tyre be put on the spare. Great - new tyre 35 quid, and then we found that the spare wheel was buckled and the tyre could not be replaced, so a new wheel for another 55 quid.

Driving home from Peterborough a few days later, and thankfully almost home, we found ourselves putting out a smoke screen like an escort destroyer and the car behaved very sullenly. This was caused ,believe it or not ,by a complete abscence of oil in the crankcase. Len had forgotten that older cars need regular checking of oil and water!! The motor was completely cooked and had to be replaced.

So another 2200 quid to instal a new motor and we nearly have a new car! Now today the battery light started flashing on the dashboard and my (by now ) good friends at Vauxhall told me that the alternator was stuffed and was developing more amps than it should which probably means it has stuffed the battery. So now we will have a new alternator and probably a new battery which will make it the most modern 1997 Vauxhall Vectra in England.

I suppose the good news is that we have never had any of the problems develope on the Motorways where it costs 100 quid to get towed off, and at least we had a trouble free week in France!

Wednesday, November 02, 2005

PHOTOS OF THE FRENCH TRIP







Photos that I could not get to upload with the text below. But you have the White Cliffs of Dover/Len tackling his steak in Amiens/The figures on Notre Dame in Amiens / the restaurant where liver became kydneys / the Australian War Memorial .And of course the famous V1 or "doodle bug" as it was nicknamed.


FRANCE -PART TWO



Above is a photo of the Vi mentioned below, and the ornate figures at Notre Dame in Amiens.
We found a very handy City guide for Caen, and, as we were in the old part of the city, we strolled around and discovered many old houses which had been the homes of notable Frenchmen. Some of the alleyways were very narrow and winding, but full of character.

Checked out of the hotel at midday with the plan of visiting Rouen, about 60 miles away. There must have been some very big event in Rouen on that day because we found that every car park was "complete" and there was absolutely nowheere to park. The traffic was horrendous and tested the French driving skills to the utmost. So we decided to give Rouen a miss and drove on with no particular destination in mind. We struck lucky by arriving at Neufchatel, and smallish town where we quickly found the Tourist Information office and picked up details of accomodation. There were two hotels suitable, but one was full and other closed! This was when Carol fouond that her mobile phone actually worked and we rang a Chambre D'Hote from the list and scored a super studio apartment on a farm just on the outskirts of town. As the accomodation was so pleasant, and as we had been doing a heap of driving, we decided to stay two nights. The studio had a kitchen and bread cheese and pate with a bottle of wine finished off the day in style.

Our host (who only spoke French) was a delightful fellow and the next morning over breakfast he told us about things to see in the area, and recommended a restaurant for lunch. One of the places he told us about was a preserved V1 Flying bomb launch site in the forest about 10 miles away. It is the only one left of 171 such sites which the Germans had established in the Normandy are to blitz London in 1943/4.



This part of Normandy is extremely beautiful with rolling countryside and superb forests. We were driving on back roads, and had a few problems finding out where we were actually going. But we we found the recommended restaurant just in time to get a table for lunch. Carol read the menu and told me that there was Lambs Liver a la something - so I opted for that after a starter of mushrooms in sauce on a tasty tart base - yummy. The liver arrived in the form of kidneys -whoops - Carol mistranslated "rognons"!! But I was delighted with them as they too were just great. Then a piece of camembert with a small salad, and finally a slice of scrumptious apple pie. Oh b oy - was I full!!

We finally made it back to Neufchatel and a light supper of bread and cheese!

Next day we set out for a Amiens arriving firstly at Albert, where we visited a first class museum of the first world war. It was an underground tunnel lined with diorama of life in the trenches, and hundred of relics from the battles - all encrusted in brown mud! It was almost too much and I was glad to surface again and leave the ghastly images behind. Off we went to Arras, another town which was basically destroyed in 1944 but with no sign of that destruction now apparent. Carol bought herself a dictionary here so that she could expand her vocabulary (like not getting liver and kidneys mixed up).

We arrived in Amiens and found a car park not far from the Notre Dame cathedral. This massive building had the most elaborate main entrance with dozens of carved figures all over the main doors. The inside of the cathedral was elaborate in the extreme with two organ lofts and a gilt encrusted backdrop to the main altar.Like most churches and cathedrals that we have seen both in England and France they have a long history which includes being wholly or partly destroyed by hostilities or fire - and always they rebuild!



We walked across the bridge overe the River Somme and found a cafe for lunch. Took ages to get served and the steak was probably skirt steak and not easy on my old teeth. Lesson learnt - avoid lunches at tourist spots. A quick walk around the town and then we remembered we had to have somewhere to stay that ngith. A phone call to Le Hermitage Chambre D'Hote found us a bed at Ginchy - a tiny village near nowhere, but a most comfortable room and use of kitchen. As the Madam had told us that she would not be able to prov ide an evening meal (it was late when we booked) we stopped at a nearby village where we saw a shop open and bought some beer,cheese etc to assuage the pangs. On the way there we stopped at the Australian/French War Memorial out of Villeurs Brettoneux. The hundreds of headstones told their own story of the young young men who died in the Great War. Carol was upset when she came across one Headstone that covered two brothers who had died within days of each other.

And so we came to our last day - Friday - and decided to go to Lille as this was not far away from Dunkerque our port of embarkation for Dover. We looked at a couple of hotels there but decided that we did not want to pay the 110 euros they were asking and finally decided that we would driv e on to Dunkerque that evening after having a good look around the city.

Arriving at Dunkirque we drove aroound looking for a suitable hotel, and then Carol suggested heading for the Railway station as there were usually a number of hotels nearby. I spotted a sign for a hotel and a vacant car park almost right outside so in we went. The Madam was gorgeous and obviously delighted with Carol's French and we got a lovely big room with shower and views out over the railway square. Madam told us about an excellent restaurant and we trotted of to find it for our last French meal. Her choice was superb and I had the best Sole Meuniere you ever want to eat.

Our Ferry was due to leave at 11.45am so we had plenty of time next morning to see something of this ancient port and we explored the quays and streets with Carol determined to find the Marche (Market). This we did with not qa lot of time to spare, but Carol managed to buy some leeeks and a bag of potatoes to bring back to Ramsay. Had a wonderful smooth crossing home and then drove from Dover to Ramsay in just under 3 hours. A wonderful week in Francce.