Tuesday, November 28, 2006

APSELY HOUSE - LONDON No1 AND THE GLOBE





Top left is a gallery at the Globe. Right - Apsley House and below the view outside the Globe site













It was forecast for rain on Sunday so we decided to make a trip to London and visit a couple of English Heritage sites - Apsely House - the home of the Duke of Wellington (the Gumboot man) and the Wellington Arch just opposite. Carol also took advantage of a special rail travellers offer of one free entry to the Globe Theatre and Museum.


Aspely House is known as No 1 London. It sits adjacent to Hyde Park Corner- which is in fact a monstrous roundabout. The House was gifted to the nation in 1947 when the incumbent Duke told his brother that he would negotiate with the Government of the day to take it over as the cost of maintaining the property was beyond their means!!Nothing to do with Inheritance Tax of course.


The family still retain private rooms in the house, but the remainder is simply a wonderful museum of Wellington's life and his passion for collecting art. It was the practice in days gone by to reward heroic achievement with great tributes in gold and silver, elaborate dinner services and settings, all of which are in abundance in this beautiful setting. Tributes from Egypt/Turkey/Russia and other grateful nations freed from the scourge of Napoleon line the walls and cabinets. The art galleries are stupendous, covering many famous painters and their works and all superbly presented. The audio guide, available at no cost is ,full of great information on all of the areas visited, and includes commentary from the current Duke.


Opposite the House is the Wellington Arch, the centrepiece of the Corner. There are three floors of memorabillia leading to viewing galleries with great views of the surrounds. On the way down from these galleries there are a series of rooms, one of which is dedicated to the system of "Blue Plaques". These plaques are mounted on buildings through London to signify some historial record of a famous person who had lived in those premises. It certainly adds interest to a walk around the City to find a plaque signifying that Mozart was once resident in this humble building. The room also offers the opportunity for one to nominate someone for consideration of a plaque. Some wag had that very day suggested Ricky Ponting!!


Off to Picadilly Circus and a superb Japanese lunch. Then a bit of navigation to find ourselves on the South Bank of the Thames to the Shakespeare Museum and the replica Globe Theatre.


The replica was the brainchild of an American, Sam Wannamaker, and is a truly remarkable bit of historical recreation. Built of timber and with a thatched roof (imagine the council regulations that would have been invoked with that!) the building represents what would have been the sort of environment of the 17th Century. This part of "London" was called Surrey, London being on the other bank of the river. In it's original form, the theatre would advertise that it was presenting plays by flying a flag, and patrons (customers) would have themselves transported across the Thames to enjoy the spectacle.


In the front of the stage was the yard, where for a penny the hoi poloi would STAND in the open air throughout the entire performance, absolutely crammed up against the stage. Better off customers were seated in galleries surrounding the Yard, and the well off enjoyed boxes on the wings of the stage. Our tour guide was able to convey a picture of what it would have been like during a performance, with no stage lighting or amplification, no set props, and a crowd who were a vocal as they wished. One of the guide' s descriptions was of the smell that would have pervaded the theatre. Unwashed bodies close together, with the favourite lolly - raw garlic!!


Altogether a memorable visit - and we think that we shall have to actually visit during a live performance to get a total picture.

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