Tuesday, November 07, 2006

ROCHESTER - THE MEDWAY






We passed through Rochester some weeks back en route to Dover, and thought then that it would be a good place to come back to for a day visit. We weren't wrong. A great Museum/Castle/Cathedral/old city/Charles Dickens and more.

First stop was the Guildhall Museum -the best provincial museum that we have visited with galleries tracing the ancient times of the area, the middle ages/graphic history of the Hulk ships on the Medway/Charles Dickes association through Pickwick Papers and Great Expectations.

The relics from early times were quite staggering with an exhibit of a 5000 year old stone axe and a collection of Bronze artifacts which had been uncovered by a farmer plowing his field. The sophistication of many of these objects got one thinking about the character of those primaeval people who had developed such skills. Why I wonder did our Aborigines not develop beyond their primitive state?

The diorama of the Hulks used as prisons on the Medway was quite dramatic and chilling and a reminder of the harsh laws which operated in the 17th and 18th century.

Charles Dickens lived in Rochester when he was 5 years old, and spent the last 13 years of his life there. His works abound with mention of features of the city.

On to the Castle which, despite it's 1000 years of existence, remains substantially intact. It was commenced in 1087 and stands 113 feet high dominating the skyline of the City and providing extensive views over the Medway and surrounding Kentish country. It was subjected to seige by King John in 1215 and the rebellious Barons held out for many months until the attackers undermined one of the four towers and set fire to the tunnel with "sacks of pig fat" bringing the tower down. It was eventually replaced, but by a circular tower so that today there are three square towers and one circular!

The Cathedral, England's second oldest, has it's origins in the 7th century and the Norman and late Gothic architechture present an admirable building. Inside we were intrigued by the plethora of plaques to departed members of the Royal Engineers. There were lists of men who had served in the Indian wars and at Waterloo - and we eventually discovered that the Royal Engineers have had their base in the area for many years. As a Local/Acting/Unpaid/Lance Corporal of the RE's during National Service in the 1940's I was quite chuffed to discover this spiritual home!!

In the High Street there is a building called "The Poor Travellers House".This name derives from the poor travellers who were provided with one night's lodging in the six bedrooms built at the back of the Almshouse in the 16th Century. This was due to the generosity of Richard Watts an eminent citizen of Rochester who represented Rochester in parliament for 35 years. His will made provision for "six bedrooms with six good matrices or Flock Bedds and other good and sufficient furniturre to lodge in poor Travellers or Wayfaring men not being rogues or Proctors. "They were also to be given fourpence!! In 1854 Dickens visited the house and it became the subject of his christmas story "The Seven Poor Travellers". The photo top right shows the building.

So after a refreshing Pint of the amber stuff, and a Smoke Salmon and Mackerel pie topped with Welsh Rarebit (yumee) we returned to Langdon Hills well satisfied with the days outing.

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